Cusco
On 6 November 2010 from Cusco, Peru | add a commentCusco is one of the rare cities that can keep a serious traveller busy for a week, especially when considering the surrounding countryside. As I had 4 full days before the start of the Inca Trail, I had an easy start on Tuesday by checking in at Peru Treks and paying the remainder of my Inca Trail fee. In the afternoon I visited Qorikancha, Monasterio de Santa Catalina and checked out trips to Manu (Amazon rainforest).
Wednesday it was time to do some sightseeing of the Inca ruins around Cusco. I took the bus to Tambomachay and walked from there to Puka Pukara, Q’enqo and finally Saqsaywamán (pronounce as “Sexy Woman”). From this last Inca ruins the Christo Blanco (large white Christ statue) was visible and I visited this before walking down into the city of Cusco.
For Thursday I booked an all-day tour of the Sacred Valley. It was quite good value, and I soon discovered why. The first stop consisted of a great deal of stalls selling handicrafts and other touristy items. Luckily we didn’t stay for too long and went to the Inca citadel of Pisac. It was easy to see why the Incas had become so powerful: their fortresses were near-imprenetable because of the location. If attackers did manage they would have to expose themselves getting to the top, as the fortress was designed to force attackers in a single line. After a touristy buffet lunch, we continued to the Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo, another site with a great view. This one had great stonework too. The final stop of the day was in Chinchero, where a demonstration of the colouring and weaving of wool was given. Obviously with the intent to sell, but I quickly sneaked out and went to explore the small town.
Friday was the last day before the start of the Inca Trail, and I decided to take it easy, and explore a few more sites in Cusco: the Waterfall Monument and the Pachakuteq Monument, which turned out to be quite a walk from the city centre; taking it easy turned into a warming up for the next day.
The Wednesday after the Inca Trail I would watch traditional dances in the Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo, and Thursday I would visit the Catedral and Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.
Arequipa & Lake Titicaca
On 2 November 2010 from Cuzco, Peru | add a commentThursday was a good day to check out the sights in Arequipa. Literally everybody told me to visit the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, so I strolled some hours through the passageways, checking out the nun’s cells and making lots of photos. Very much recommended indeed. Afterwards I had some French crepes at another recommended place. They provided the energy to visit de Museo de Arte Virreinal de Santa Teresa, where I got a nice private tour. Then it was back to Cayma by combi, a very cramped minibus. After a brief visit to the church, I decided to walk back to the hostel, a good chance to practice my Spanish, as I had no map of the area and therefore no clue how to get there. I managed.
Friday was spent in the bus to Puno (6 hours) and booking a 2-day tour of the islands in Lake Titicaca. Located at an altitude of 3800m high, it was better not to do too much the first day.
Saturday morning our boat left to the Uros Islands, manmade floating islands made of reed. A boat made of the same reed brought us from one island to the next. Even though the islands itself are a spectacular feat, they were way too touristy for my taste, and it was simply cringing to hear islanders sing songs in English and other European languages. So off to Isla Amantani it was. After docking, we (4 French and myself) were picked up by our host family were we had lunch. Late afternoon we climbed the highest hill of the island (4150m) to watch the sunset and after dinner with our host family, we got dressed in traditional outfits and joined the traditional dancing in the local discotheque (stretching the word here).
Sunday morning we had a nice pancake breakfast at the host family and then set of to Isla Taquile were we walked around the island and had lunch. In the afternoon we went back to Puno, where halloween celebrations were still in full order. In the restaurant I got served by a monster, and I have never seen so many Grim Reapers (“Magere Hein”) wandering the streets.
Monday I took an overpriced Turismo Mer bus from Puno to Cusco. The advantage compared to the normal busses is that it stops at some (pre-)Inca sites along the way: Pucará, Abra la Raya (all busses stop here), Raqchi and Andahuaylillas. This did break up the journey quite nicely, and Raqchi really was an amazing site, with a huge temple and some 156 circular storage silos. In the evening I arrived to Cusco, 4 days early for the booked Inca Trail, but with plenty to do in the meantime. I am staying at Pariwana Hostel, which is quite central and a good place to meet people.
